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Toilet Parts Explorer

Spin it, pull it apart, tap a part. Every piece of a standard two-piece toilet, what it does, how to tell it is the problem, and where to find the replacement.

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Assembled

Explode

Exploded

X-ray

What’s going on?

Keeps running
Weak or partial flush
Fills slowly or hisses
Water on the floor
Handle loose or sticks
Toilet rocks
Seat loose or cracked

All 15 parts

Shop all toilet parts (466)

Tools for the job

Adjustable wrench
Large flat screwdriver
Sponge & bucket
Putty knife (wax ring jobs)
Hacksaw (cutting closet bolts)

Not sure which one you need?

Bring the old part into our Cape Coral or Fort Myers store — we’ll match it on the spot. Most repair parts are in stock, or order online for free in-store pickup.


Toilet parts guide

Fill Valve

Refills the tank after every flush and shuts off when the float reaches the set water level. It also tops off the bowl through the refill tube.

Signs it’s failing: Tank never stops filling or hisses; Slow refill; Water level too high (spilling into overflow tube) or too low.

Flush Valve & Overflow Tube

The opening at the bottom of the tank that dumps water into the bowl. The overflow tube keeps a stuck fill valve from flooding the bathroom.

Signs it’s failing: Running toilet even with a new flapper (cracked or pitted seat); Leak between tank and bowl.

Flapper

The rubber seal that lifts when you flush and drops to close the flush valve so the tank can refill.

Signs it’s failing: Toilet runs or "phantom flushes" every few minutes; Food coloring in the tank shows up in the bowl without flushing.

Lift Chain

Connects the flush lever arm to the flapper. Too much slack gives a weak flush; too little holds the flapper open.

Signs it’s failing: Weak flush — you have to hold the handle down; Toilet runs because the chain is caught under the flapper.

Flush Lever

The handle and arm that lift the chain. The mounting nut inside the tank is reverse-threaded.

Signs it’s failing: Handle wobbles or spins freely; Handle sticks down after flushing.

Tank & Lid

Holds the flush water. The lid is a common casualty of dropped toolboxes.

Signs it’s failing: Sweating tank in humid weather; Cracked tank or lid.

Tank-to-Bowl Gasket

The thick rubber or foam seal between the flush valve and the bowl inlet.

Signs it’s failing: Drip from under the back of the tank only when flushing.

Tank Bolts & Washers

Two or three bolts with rubber washers that clamp the tank to the bowl and seal the bolt holes.

Signs it’s failing: Constant drip under the tank; Rusty bolt heads inside the tank; Tank shifts when you lean on it.

Seat & Lid

Bolts through two holes behind the bowl. Round and elongated bowls take different seats.

Signs it’s failing: Seat slides side to side; Cracked or stained seat; Broken hinge.

Bowl

The porcelain base with the built-in trap that siphons waste into the drain.

Signs it’s failing: Frequent clogs; Cracks at the base.

Closet Bolts & Caps

The two T-bolts that hold the bowl down to the floor flange, hidden under plastic caps.

Signs it’s failing: Toilet rocks; Bolt spins when you tighten the nut.

Wax Ring

Seals the bowl outlet to the floor flange so sewer water and gas stay in the pipe.

Signs it’s failing: Water around the base after flushing; Sewer smell; Soft floor around the toilet.

Closet Flange

The ring fastened to the floor and the drain pipe that the toilet bolts to.

Signs it’s failing: Closet bolts won’t stay tight; Cracked or rusted flange ring; Repeat wax ring failures.

Supply Line

The flexible hose from the shutoff valve to the bottom of the fill valve.

Signs it’s failing: Drip at either nut; Bulging or rusty braided line.

Shutoff Valve

The valve on the wall that cuts water to the toilet. Old multi-turn valves often won’t close all the way.

Signs it’s failing: Won’t turn or won’t fully shut; Drips from the stem.