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Garbage Disposal Parts Explorer

Sink flange on top, disposer hanging underneath, trap and dishwasher hose off the side. Tap a part to see what it does, the signs it is going bad, and the replacement we stock. Unplug it or flip the breaker before you reach under there.

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What’s going on?

Hums but won’t spin
Won’t turn on at all
Leaks from the bottom
Leaks at the sink
Leaks from the side
Slow drain / backs up into dishwasher
Bad smell
Loud grinding or rattling

All 11 parts

Shop all disposers & parts (79)

Tools for the job

1/4" hex key (disposer wrench)
Flat screwdriver
Channel-lock pliers
Plumber’s putty
Flashlight
Tongs or pliers (never your hand)
Bucket & towel

Not sure which one you need?

Bring the old part into our Cape Coral or Fort Myers store — we’ll match it on the spot. Most repair parts are in stock, or order online for free in-store pickup.


Garbage Disposal parts guide

Disposer Motor Unit

The motor and grinding chamber. Spinning impellers fling food against a stationary grind ring and the bits wash out the discharge.

Signs it’s failing: Water dripping from the bottom of the housing (internal seal failed — replace the unit); Hums but won’t turn even after clearing a jam; Constant metal-on-metal grinding.

Splash Guard

The rubber flap in the drain opening that keeps food and water from flying back up and catches spoons before they fall in.

Signs it’s failing: Torn or missing flaps; Black gunk and odor on the underside; Silverware keeps ending up in the chamber.

Sink Flange

The metal ring that sits in the sink drain hole on a bed of plumber’s putty. The disposer hangs from it.

Signs it’s failing: Water dripping from where the disposer meets the sink; Flange spins or sits loose in the hole; Finish worn through or rusted.

Mounting Assembly

The backup flange, fiber gasket, mounting ring and snap ring that clamp the flange to the sink and give the disposer something to twist onto.

Signs it’s failing: Leak at the sink with a tight flange; Disposer wobbles or rattles against the sink; Mount screws rusted or stripped.

Discharge Tube

The elbow that carries ground-up waste from the side of the disposer over to the trap. Bolted on with a flange and rubber gasket.

Signs it’s failing: Drip where the tube bolts to the disposer (bad gasket); Leak at the slip nut; Clogged with grease.

Dishwasher Inlet & Hose

The nipple on the side of the disposer the dishwasher drain hose clamps onto. New units ship with a plastic knockout plug sealing it.

Signs it’s failing: Dishwasher won’t drain after installing a new disposer (knockout still in); Leak at the hose clamp; Dishwasher water backs up into the sink.

P-Trap

The U-bend after the disposer that holds water to block sewer gas. Ground food that settles here is the usual clog.

Signs it’s failing: Slow drain or standing water in the sink; Leak at a slip nut; Sewer smell.

Power Cord Kit

The plug-in cord that wires into the electrical box on the bottom of the disposer. Many units ship without one.

Signs it’s failing: No power at all with a good outlet and reset button; Cord frayed, scorched or pinched; New disposer came without a cord.

Reset Button

The red button on the bottom of the disposer. It trips when the motor overheats or stalls, cutting power to protect it.

Signs it’s failing: Disposer dead silent; Button sticks out further than usual; Trips again right away (still jammed).

Hex Key / Jam Wrench

The 1/4" Allen wrench that fits the socket in the center bottom of the disposer to turn the flywheel by hand and free a jam.

Signs it’s failing: Disposer hums but the blades don’t move; Something wedged in the chamber.

Kitchen Sink

Single or double bowl, drop-in or undermount. The disposer mounts to a standard 3½" drain opening.

Signs it’s failing: Cracks or chips; Failed caulk or clips (undermount sagging).