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Sprinkler System Parts Explorer

One Florida sprinkler zone: the valve in its box, the pipe out to the heads, and the timer that runs it. Tap a part to see what it does, the signs it is going bad, and the replacement we stock.

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What’s going on?

Zone won’t turn on
Zone won’t shut off
Geyser / broken head
Low pressure / misting
Head won’t pop up
Controller blank
Wet spot / soggy area

All 12 parts

Shop all underground irrigation parts

Tools for the job

Flat & Phillips screwdrivers
Channel-lock pliers
PVC cutter or hacksaw
PVC primer & cement
Small trenching shovel
Multimeter (solenoid & wire checks)
Sprinkler head pull-up tool

Not sure which one you need?

Bring the old part into our Cape Coral or Fort Myers store — we’ll match it on the spot. Most repair parts are in stock, or order online for free in-store pickup.


Sprinkler Valve & Heads parts guide

Valve Box & Lid

The green plastic box set flush with the lawn that keeps dirt off the valve and lets you get to it.

Signs it’s failing: Cracked or missing lid; Box full of dirt or fire ants; Mower keeps catching the edge.

Zone Valve

Opens and closes water to one zone when the timer tells it to. Inline valves live in a box; anti-siphon valves stand above ground.

Signs it’s failing: Cracked body or bonnet; Leaks at the glue joints; Still weeps after a new diaphragm.

Solenoid

The black cylinder on top of the valve. 24-volt power from the timer pulls its plunger and lets the valve open.

Signs it’s failing: Zone never comes on; Clicks but no water; Reads open or shorted on a multimeter.

Diaphragm

The rubber seal inside the valve that actually stops the water. Pressure on top holds it shut until the solenoid bleeds it off.

Signs it’s failing: Zone won’t shut off; Heads in one zone dribble all day; Torn or sand-packed rubber.

Flow Control & Bleed Screw

The handle on top throttles how far the valve opens; the small bleed screw lets you run the zone by hand without the timer.

Signs it’s failing: Zone runs weak even though other zones are fine; Valve stays on after a manual test; Stripped or broken handle.

Waterproof Wire Connectors & Zone Wire

Gel-filled wire nuts join the solenoid leads to the multi-strand zone wire that runs back to the timer.

Signs it’s failing: Green, corroded copper in the box; Zone works intermittently; Nicked wire from edging or digging.

PVC Pipe & Fittings

The rigid PVC mainline and lateral pipe plus the glued tees, elbows and couplings that carry water from the valve to each head.

Signs it’s failing: Soggy spot or sinkhole over the line; Cracked fitting after a root or mower hit; Low pressure on every head in the zone.

Funny Pipe (Swing Pipe)

Flexible black tubing from the PVC tee to the head, so a mower or car tire bends it instead of snapping the fitting.

Signs it’s failing: Water bubbling up beside a head; Barb fitting pulled out; Crushed or kinked line.

Pop-Up Spray Head

The body in the ground with a spring-loaded stem that pops up when the zone runs and drops back flush when it stops.

Signs it’s failing: Geyser — cap or body broken off; Stem stuck up or stuck down; Leaks around the cap when running.

Spray Nozzle

Screws on top of the pop-up stem and sets the pattern (quarter, half, full or adjustable) and the throw distance.

Signs it’s failing: Misting instead of spraying; Uneven or dry patches; Pattern hits the house or driveway.

Rotor Head

A gear-driven head that throws a single stream back and forth across larger areas — 20 to 45 feet.

Signs it’s failing: Stops rotating; Stuck on one spot; Won’t retract.

Controller / Timer

The wall-mounted timer that sends 24 volts to each zone valve on schedule.

Signs it’s failing: Blank display; Zones run at the wrong times; One zone won’t fire but the valve tests good.